Leading with elusive scents of ginseng and sea spray, this goes on to deliver a buoyant, juicy, polished palate performance leading to an invigorating finish of tart, juicy lemon and apple seemingly suffused with white pepper, crushed stone and the alkalinity and salinity of the ocean. There’s more force, grip and depth here than in the corresponding generic bottling, if neither more charm nor perhaps more complexity – just another wonderful example of skilled hands and vintage virtues! (DS) (11/2015)
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